JASPER MORRIS 2019

JASPER MORRIS

MILLÉSIME 2019

Jean-Pierre was planning on bottling the 2019s of both colours the week after my tasting in November, instead of in March as they seem ready to him, and they are all “nature”, being below 10mg/l of free sulphur. All the red wines were vinified as 100% whole bunches, sulphur free and with immediate malolactics. The levels of volatile acidity, which needed careful management in 2018, were negligeable in 2019. Picking started in Savigny on 9th September, then the white wines of the Côte de Nuits, then Jean-Pierre stopped for a few days before harvesting the reds. Degrees are not an issue with village wines up to 13.5%, 1ers crus at 13.8% and the grands crus at or just above 14%.

White

Coteaux Bourguignons // 86-87

Pale lemon colour. The bouquet is exuberant, a little touch of liquorice, some acidity, this has density and quality but what about personality? Good wine as it happens, but I understand it is a hard sell. Tasted : November 2020

Nuits-St-Georges Les Argillats // 89-91

Grown on ‘Pinot Gouges’ vines. 25% new wood. Pale to mid fresh yellow. Lovely bouquet, beautifully attractive nose, the palate shows a touch of wood at the moment, medium density of fruit, a few apple notes, good length, a little salinity. This is a white Nuits-St-Georges of character and quality. Tasted : November 2020

Morey-St-Denis La Bidaude // 89-92

Pretty pale primrose, a little touch of oak which sits well with the concentration of fruit. An attractive body of fresh peachy fruit, but retaining freshness too. Precision and intensity, picked at the perfect date – they used to go later here and found the wine could become heavy. Tasted : November 2020

Red

Bourgogne Pinot Noir // 87-89

Glowing purple, exceptionally heady nose, some orange blossom, incredibly spicy, takes me out of the region, a little bit in the direction of syrah, I thin k because of the whole bunch approach, but it is still absolutely lovely. No more intensity than a Bourgogne but it is really lovely. Tasted : November 2020

Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Bons Ores // 88-91

Rich intense purple, this is heady and delicious. Very pinot, with exuberant peonies on the nose, all in red fruit on the palate, though Jean-Pierre thinks black fruit. Anyway, this is gorgeous ! Tasted : November 2020

Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Peuillets 1er Cru // 91-94

Will be bottled later than the other wines, as it is not ready. Darker colour, crimson purple, with a more backward nose, this is indeed not ready yet. Sweetly ripe behind, lovely texture to this deep red velvet, with excellent length. Faint peachiness. Very lovely. Jean-Pierre Guyon’s Peuillets is always a winner. Tasted : November 2020

Nuits-St-Georges Les Herbues // 90-93

Fine deep crimson purple. Gorgeous heady nose, some violets in with the deep dark raspberry fruit, some spice too. Good acidity, white pepper, very spicy finish which slightly changes the character. Long finish ! Tasted : November 2020

Gevrey-Chambertin // 91-93

There is fine weight to this Gevrey-Chambertin. It has a dense dark purple colour, minor reduction, which soon blows off, then little cherry notes, dark fruit but not black. Sweet rich ripe fruit on the palate, very gourmand. A little touch of pepper behind. Tasted : November 2020

Vosne-Romanée // 89-92

Very intense crimson purple. Attractive lifted red fruit, a bit floral. Opens out beautifully on the palate, a high degree of pepper and spice on some almost black raspberry notes. Thick texture at the back, perhaps not a classic Vosne-Romanée because so evidently in the Guyon style, but really lovely in its way. Tasted : November 2020

5 Star Wine

Vosne-Romanée Charmes de Mazières // 92-94

Exceptionally rich purple colour with a paler rim. The bouquet suggests a mass of Exceptionally rich purple colour with a paler rim. The bouquet suggests a mass of fruit, which is not quite ready to be delivered yet. This absolutely fills out the middle of the palate and delivers a more classic rendition of Vosne-Romanée with exceptional length. In quite another league from the regular village Vosne. Tasted : November 2020

Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 1er Cru // 93-96

Intense imperial purple. The bouquet is notably finer than in 2018, which had the burnt flint feel, this is fresher with a little bit of fresh, clean champignon de Paris. Otherwise it is all about a deep red fruit with a couple of black fruit notes. Superb persistence with waves of detail. Wonderful length. Not a shy wine, but I would recommend accepting its invitation ! Tasted : November 2020

5 Star Wine

Vosne-Romanée En Orveaux 1er Cru // 94-97

Headily intense purple. The bouquet stands up to be counted as well. Some of the lifted red fruit aromatics engendered by whole bunch, but showing its terroir too. Perhaps even a class above the Brûlées. Amazingly multi-textured, a touch more velvet here. Whole bunch spice is there, but really well mixed in. Tasted : November 2020

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru // 94-97

Deep purple black, the bouquet digs down deep into a darker register of pinot noir. Quite a lot of oak too. Sweet dark fruit, very suave, just a hint of all spice behind, opulent, balanced, very long. Majestic length indeed. This is all set to be a very noble Clos Vougeot Tasted : November 2020

5 Star Wine

Echezeaux Grand Cru // 95-98

The bouquet is divinely sumptuous, ultra floral in power mode, the most intense n Imperial purple. The bouquet is divinely sumptuous, ultra floral in power mode, the most intense of roses that you could imagine. A heavyweight that is light on its feet, (stings like a butterfly and floats like a bee ?) The spice at the finish keeps this fresh and delicious. Very long indeed. Tasted : November 2020