Millésime 2022

Steen Öhman 2024

Millésime 2022

Hand-destemming grapes one by one – or a variation thereof – is a technique being tested and implemented more frequently by Burgundian winemakers.

In Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon is taking a step forward by using the technique, which Jean-Pierre calls “tri en nuage” (cloud sorting). It was almost fully implemented in the estate’s 2020 production.

The different names and methods for this technique are admittedly somewhat confusing. I try to use the names that I know, and the ones used by the vigneron in question. This is not a competition that I can judge; may the best wines win!

Nor is the actual destemming identical at all domaines; there are large variations in the share of hand-destemmed berries among the individual cuvees. Some only take the main and middle stems of the cluster, while others leave only the pedicels (the tiny stems that hold the individual grapes).

Some wines have 15% hand-destemmed clusters, others are 100% grape caviar – meaning single, undamaged berries that are removed from their pedicels by hand.

Furthermore, there are vinification differences among the estates, so there is wide latitude among the interpretations of the technique.

Guyon: 100% whole cluster and low sulphur

Jean-Pierre Guyon runs a medium-sized domaine in Vosne located on the D974. The estate has been organically certified since 2012, and Jean-Pierre is clearly both an inventive and a thoughtful vigneron.

To manage this process, we take pains to accompany the grapes, intervening as little as possible in their transformation into wine.
In tank after tank, the bunches of grapes are piled up carefully, because we work with 100% whole bunches and without the addition of sulphur. The grapes we work with are healthy, wholesome, and alive. We prepare a pied de cuve (starter) from each plot to start the alcoholic fermentation off rapidly.”

Jean-Pierre Guyon has produced a stunning range of 2022s, a vintage that supports the estate style well.

In 2022, Guyon vinified all his wines with the “tri en nuage” technique – 100%. The whole clusters were cut up by hand, removing the central stems of each bunch while leaving the pedicels.

The resulting wines are strikingly perfumed, sumptuous, and with a deep, detailed scent of roses. There was also magnificent work done by the Tonnellerie Rousseau, which developed a special, discreet toast for Guyon’s barrels.

The outcome is a delicate perfume in at least some of the wines which takes them to higher levels of hedonistic joy. I have no doubt its basis is to be found in the special destemming.

The sulphur levels in the Guyon wines are very low, and will, for the ’22s, be below 10mg/l total – in other words, undetectable.

So, to the notes! The wines were tasted this past November 16.

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Bourgogne 2022

The Bourgogne has a rich, generous nose – a bit vin de soif here, if you can get it. It has seductive notes of cherries, strawberries, and raspberries. Fairly velvety, this will provide excellent near-term drinking; no need to keep it for 20 years.

(Drink from 2024) – Good – (86-87p) –

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Chorey-les-Beaune 2022

Chorey-les-Beaune as an appellation is more and more on the buyer’s radar. Guyon is making a good Chorey – rich and expansive, with an open stance. While it has good depth and acidity for the vintage, it is nonetheless a bit reticent. A vin de soif? Not this year!

(Drink from 2024) – Good – (86-87p)

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Savigny-les-Beaune Les Peuillets 2022

Yellow and pink roses; I really like these delicate floral notes. Intense and vivid, this shows an appealing mid-palate. There’s good energy from the 40% new, very lightly toasted oak, as well as good tension. It shows delightful fruit, with notes of raspberries as well as complex variants of wild strawberries.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (89p) –

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Herbues 2022

The Herbues is showing extremely well, full of violets, and with some pink roses in the background. It’s somehow a bit Vosne in its expression, as the delicate roses are almost overshadowed by the the violet notes. This is not really a criticism; there is great complexity here, along with nice energy and tension.

(Drink from 2029) – Fine – (90p) –

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Gevrey-Chambertin La Platière 2022 

This has a special mid-palate presence; gorgeous fruit with delicate salinity. While currently a bit reduced, I love the notes of cherry stones and violets. This is showing beautifully, although I am keeping my feet on the ground.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good – (89-90p) –

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Vosne-Romanée 2022

This is perfumed and floral, with plenty of flowers gracing the bouquet (see what I did there?). The nose almost explodes with fragile red/pink roses; a truly sexy bouquet. The wine is vivid and light-footed, coming from the lieux-dits Les Chalandins and Hautes Maizières. Elegant and juicy.

(Drink from 2030) – Fine – (91-92p) –

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Vosne-Romanée Les Charmes de Maizières 2022

This is a special wine, made from a selection of individual vines in Hautes Maizières that are more than 60 years old. There’s 100% new oak, but it is very discreet. It shows deep red fruit, and on the nose darker red roses. Intense and profound, this is charming and floral. Like the others, 100% “tri en nuage.”

(Drink from 2032) – Fine++ – (93p) –

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 2022

Brûlées is a treat from Guyon with its smoky notes of Vosne spices and red fruit. It’s from a plot next to Grivot; i.e. the northern – but south-facing – side of Brûlèes. This has clear tension, and is graced with gorgeous red roses. Delicate, with medium weight, the 100% “tri en nuage” deserves a mention.

(Drink from 2034) – Very Fine – (93-94p) –

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Vosne-Romanée En Orveaux 2022

En Orveaux is a beautiful vineyard sadly overlooked by many Burgundy fans. The Cathiard version is often one of the most delicate wines in his portfolio, and this is also the case with the Guyon example. There’s an explosion of floral elements including sweet, sugary roses that are delicate and vivid, with nuanced salinity. This is really lively and vivid – what a wine! With 100% new oak and 100% “tri en nuage,” it has fantastic tension and delicacy. I love this terroir. 

(Drink from 2032) – Very Fine+ – (94-95p) –

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Clos Vougeot 2022

An intense, vivid Clos Vougeot, this shows deep floral notes and a highly perfumed nose. It’s a big Vougeot, to say the least, with its extreme perfume and floral note. Still, this is delicate, coming from a plot below the chateau just above the de Montille parcel between the chateau and Chateau de la Tour. Old vines gives this its remarkable character; bravo.

(Drink from 2035) – Very Fine+ – (94-95p) –

Domaine Jean-Pierre Guyon Echezeaux 2022

The Echezeaux is showing all its complexity. Gorgeous scents of pink and red roses, as well as additional floral notes like violets and even lilacs, are mixed in this flower garden. While the Clos Vougeot almost outshines it, the Echezeaux comes from a plot in En Orveaux just above the Vougeot chateau, so the terroirs are neighbours. This is, however, delicate and intense, with a deep mineral note that is effortless beneath a fantastic bouquet. 100% “tri en nuage” and new oak, bien sur.

(Drink from 2035) – Outstanding – (94-95p) –